The 2024 reboot of the Victoria Secret Fashion Show inevitably garnered attention after its six year hiatus, following the unprecedented negative reception of its 2018 predecessor – which received substantial criticism for being a step backwards when it came to its representation of the female body through lingerie. Responding to the concern over its return, audiences were promised comprehensive inclusivity with a far more rational and conscious approach to body image. Unfortunately, for the most part, this claim was unfulfilled.
The show featured former Victoria Secret angels such as Gigi and Bella Hadid, Adriana Lima and Tyra Banks met with other esteemed personalities such as Kate Moss, all of which were well acquainted with the frustrations surrounding the show’s glorification of thinness. The show’s token attempt for body inclusivity included ‘plus sized’ models such as Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser who walked the runway in bodysuits and camisoles, a stark contrast to their more slender peers who were seen sporting midriff, and significantly smaller, underwear. Both through the clothing and broadcasting of the event, there seemed to be a censoring of the larger bodied models which felt bad-taste despite their intention for progressivity; instead, it seemed to reaffirm that the curvier body is something to be concealed especially in its proximity to more slender body types. Worse yet, the ‘plus sized’ bodies that walked the runway still reinforced an unattainable beauty standard, their figures being perfectly hourglass and shapely, which likewise enforced unrealistic body standards. This categorization of bodies established criteria: that in order to feel beautiful in lingerie one must adhere to either of these ideals. If there wasn't already a painfully limited range of size, the promotion of different shaped bodies was even worse. This juxtaposition of different sizes brought a strange sense of nostalgia and dispirit for me and many others, as their failure with ‘body inclusivity’ felt token and reminiscent of 2000s model culture that praised smaller frames and alienated others from the standards of beauty.
More positively, Alex Consani and Valentina Sampaio’s debut made history, as they became the first transgender women to grace the runway and did so emphatically – confronting Victoria Secret’s enduring culture of exclusion. Consani was styled in a metallic, lilac set which showcased as something futuristic (especially with the bleached brow). The look felt testament to the supposed support of evolution within the fashion industry, as the look strongly asserted inclusivity in the company’s future. Sampaio, on the other hand, boldly debuted in an understated black set that was accentuated by a layered, tulle bow that added fierce structure to the look that asserted a dominance as if to cement herself within a culture of reform that the industry so desperately needs.
Previously, various male music artists have accompanied the show such as the Weeknd and Harry Styles to name a few – but his year the event saw strictly female performers including Thai artist Lisa, Tyla and the iconic Cher. Whilst I am of the opinion the exclusion of male performers was a sound choice, my reasoning does not align with the rationale they articulate. The logic was that removing male presence from the show would pacify the concern of the male gaze that has previously governed the Victoria Secret runway, and, I would say, is deeply embedded within its culture. Their objective was to alleviate the male gaze simply through removing men entirely – as if to say that without the physical presence of men there could be no male gaze present; a concept so illogical and reductive it verges on comical. Despite their intentions behind the lack of male artists, the attempt to give female artists a platform to celebrate diverse female expression was overwhelmingly unsuccessful.
Having said this, Tyla’s vibrant and enthusiastic performance was arguably the highlight of the event. Amidst the rigid movement of the models, Tyla expressed herself through dance, moving so liberally in contrast to the Victoria Secret angels whose rehearsed walks were identical – appearing to be more concerned about their flat posture than actually enjoying this supposed celebration of femininity. Although such a respected and powerful symbol of female autonomy, Cher’s performance was, quite frankly embarrassing, as it very much felt like her inclusion was a token gesture of feminism opposed to her performance as a meaningful contribution to diversifying the runway.
Despite the show’s promise to reflect on its inclusivity, their attempts were more apparent in some areas than others. Undeniably, there was significant improvement in the diversification of gender on the runway; but they continued to glorify an unattainable standard of beauty and failed to redefine their controversial legacy.
