Particularly topical at the moment, as always, is the condemnation of fast fashion and our ability to point fingers at brands such as Shein. Polar to this, increasingly we are turning to second-hand shopping, and often, making our own clothes. I had the pleasure of interviewing British Vogue’s Joy Montgomery, to discuss her experiences with the magazine and to ask about her take on the future of fashion.
What appeals to you about working for Vogue?
I have always held Vogue up as the ultimate when it comes to setting trends and broader conversations around fashion, and indeed, under the editorship of Edward Enninful, I think the magazine has become more relevant than ever in addressing the hot button topics of the day – be that sustainability or increasing diversity within the industry. And of course, getting a first-glimpse of the September issue is always a bonus!
What kind of things does your daily job involve?
I work in a new team, which is part of the wider digital team, that focuses on what we call ‘commerce’ content. This can cover anything from seasonal trends and street style to buzzy new designer collaborations, but everything we create is shoppable, and we get a percentage cut of anything sold through these stories. On the average day, I’ll be writing up new content, editing other people’s copies, meeting up with brands and tracking sales and page view data.
How do you think Vogue addresses sustainable fashion?
A couple of years ago Vogue hired a dedicated Sustainability Editor, Emily Chan, who is an incredible source of knowledge in this area and, content-wise, is always on top of the latest developments across the industry. Vogue is incredible at supporting emerging talent, and I’d say that a vast majority of young designers coming up now put sustainability at the centre of their business models. Brands, such as Connor Ives and Rave Review, are doing amazing things with upcycled fabrics. As a vintage fashion-lover myself, I have also tried to incorporate pre-loved clothing into my edits, and recently set up an online shopping franchise called Vintage To Vogue, which shows readers how to buy the latest trends secondhand.
What’s been your favourite part of the job at Vogue and what has been your favourite article to write?
I think being part of a new team setting up a new part of the website is super exciting, especially at such an established publication. Not filling anyone else’s shoes has definitely taken the pressure off! Article-wise, I think it would have to be a first-person story that I wrote about discovering my holiday style on a trip to California. I used it as a way to explore the idea of fashion identities and how we can so easily put ourselves in a box, sartorially-speaking.
What do you think is the biggest impact which fashion will make this year? Or alternatively, perhaps the biggest staple for 2022?
I think it’s interesting to see how the Noughties is making a huge resurgence right now, which is slightly triggering for us Millennials who lived through it the first time round, but I love how it has translated into the booming resale market – Depop is positively awash with long-slung jeans and cargo skirts! I admit I have embraced the slouchy jean, and maybe even the odd chain belt, but I’m not sure I can quite stomach a denim butterfly top…
Do you make any of your own clothes? If so, what?
I have made my own clothes, and particularly enjoyed it as a pastime during lockdown. I’ve slightly lost track of everything I’ve made, but the list includes mini and maxi dresses, checked trousers, a leather skirt and a shacket for a friend. I also did a pattern-cutting course for my 30th birthday which was fascinating, but sadly the new job hasn’t left much time to put the things I learned into practice!
Why do you think making your own clothes is coming back into fashion? And do you think the trend will ever be cost-efficient enough to stick, or will it remain just as a hobby?
I think people are becoming more conscious of where their clothes come from, which has made them wary of shopping from super-cheap fast fashion brands. While making your own clothes might not always be as cheap as shopping the high-street, you can make garments that fit your exact needs, both in terms of style and body measurements. I also think TV programmes like The Great British Sewing Bee and Next In Fashion encourage people to give it a go too.
What do you think makes a trend successful?
Basic though it may sound, the most successful trends seem to be the styles that haven’t had airtime for a long period of time. Fashion trends are, ultimately, cyclical, and so you know that if oversized silhouettes have dominated for over five years, then it’s only a matter of time before a big brand sends a cinched-in waist down the runway. But, on the flip-wise, the industry loves to champion something that is truly original – and, thankfully, fashion is not short on creativity and innovation!
Thank you Joy, for your time in answering these questions. This interview has shed a light on a handful of ways in which the fashion landscape is constantly changing, and illustrates how media influences, such as what we watch and where we buy our clothes from, can have a huge impact on the way we think about what we wear.
