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LFW: Bora Aksu Show Report

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Photos: Agatha Torrance


The Turkish designer Bora Aksu showed an Autumn/Winter 2013 collection that oozed 20s glamour through and through. As the show notes explained, this collection was inspired wholly by the Dolly Sisters; poster girls of the 1920s for a 'new world of unashamed beauty, opulence and independence'. For a while the two sisters were among the greatest and most glamorous women in the world.

The show notes elaborated that through the silhouettes and contrasting fabrics of the collection the duality of the Dolly Sisters lives are shown as well as the modernisation of women's clothing through the period. Corsets and structured shapes were used to show the restrictions of the time, and the signature shift dresses of the 20s were used to represent the freedoms of the period, and both used to highlight the contradictions of the time.

The flapper dresses were the high point of the collection with their delicate semicircular lace applique. They provide an air of romanticism which was also felt through the colour palette: dove greys, whites and creams to signify the frosty fairytale of the sisters to the deep purples, warm pinks and soft blues which reflect the Sisters 'often bruised hearts'.

It was a collection of contrasts: beautiful Turkish leather softened with waves of pearls and shearling. Aksu's signature dresses were in abundance but he also showed a whole selection of separates too, capes corsets and collars were worn nonchalantly over sheer shirts and delicate embroidered dresses.

From the headdresses worn low on the forehead to the drop waists of the dresses, Aksu gave us a trip back to the 1920s. It was not a collection that focused on colour or print, it was about creating a 'balanced' look by combining an array of luxury textures.

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